Monday 12 October 2015

Back in Canada (2015-10-12)

Our flight was not until 5 pm, so we enjoyed a leisurely morning in the hotel, doing a final pack of the suitcases, and noting everything that we bought while away, for the Canadian customs declaration.

At the airport it was somewhat disconcerting to see 3 guys with their heads in one of the aircraft engines, and then, when they finally finished what they were doing, to see the difficulty they had in closing the engine cowling. But thankfully the duct tape and binder twine did the trick and we had no engine issues enroute to Canada. 

After 5 weeks away, it is nice to be back in Canada, seeing familiar people and places.  Our son in law, Norm, was at YVR to meet us, along with the grandchildren, so we got to spend a little time with them before they headed to bed. 

We had a wonderful trip, 24 energetic days with our friends, Randy and Marty, and a fun week with my cousins in Ireland.  We walked 365 Km, for an average of 11 Km (14,589 steps) per day.  So hopefully when we step on the scales, the exercise will have managed to counteract all those English breakfasts.

Now we look forward to a few months at home.


UK & Ireland - day 32 (2015-10-11) - Mucklin to Heathrow

After one last visit with Nora, we left Mucklin just before 10:30 am.  The GPS steered us without issue to Cork, but not realizing that there was a petrol station right at the entrance to Cork airport, we wasted a bunch of time driving to the "nearest" petrol station (per the GPS) finding one out of business and one closed on Sundays....but good practice driving a stick shift on narrow streets on the wrong side of the road.

We dropped the rental car, and as we headed through the terminal to check in for our flight, I spied two things of interest in the Spar store.  The first was Tim Horton coffee (as Canadian as....), and the second was Jelly Snakes from the Natural Confectionery Company (a favourite of mine when in New Zealand).  I used all of my Euro change to buy snakes....so it wasn't just St. Patrick who got the snakes out of Ireland!!  Two thumbs up for Spar stores.

            Tim Hortons coffee in Cork airport

The flight to Heathrow was on time, where it was clear sailing through customs and immigration, and we connected well with the Hotel Hoppa bus to our hotel.  So overall an easy travel day.

We ate dinner in The Plough, a nearby pub, where we watched Ireland trounce France in their last Rugby World Cup pool match.  Go Ireland!!!

Nothing good on TV, so we hunkered down with our books, and an early night.


Saturday 10 October 2015

UK & Ireland - day 31 (2015-10-10) - Mucklin

We met Nora at Kilmore graveyard at 9 am, a very quiet time on an Irish Saturday morning, with most people enjoying a lazy start to the day.  This was my last opportunity to harvest information from the gravestones, and in particular the Cuddihy family ( my grandmother's sister married a Cuddihy), which I had previously ignored.

From the graveyard we headed back to Silvermines, as Nora knew where the Cuddihys had lived.  We walked up the road, and then up a farm lane, well used by the local farmer's cows, to a point where we could see across the fields to where the house had been.  A nice setting but no house visible.  But it is great to be able to identify exactly where these ancestral families lived, and hypothesize on how they may have met one another.

The afternoon was spent cleaning up and getting our bags packed in preparation for the trip home, with some last emails and phone calls home.

In the evening we attended the "Month's Mind" for my cousins' maternal aunt who died recently.  The Month's Mind is an ancient practice, still observed in Ireland, and is a mass celebrated about a month after a person dies, with a meal afterwards for all the family.  I had not heard the term before, but Nora's husband, Liam, filled me in (thanks Liam).  We got to see even more cousins, some that we had never met, and others that were but small children the last time we visited.  It was wonderful to be able to participate in this celebration.

Tomorrow we leave Ireland, and start the journey home.  After all our walks on farm lanes we will certainly be taking a little bit of Ireland home on our boots, but much more in our hearts.  The relatives were all very good to us, but special thanks must go to Nora, who gave us so much of her time and expertise, and made the visit excellent in so many ways.  We are so glad that we made Ireland part of our trip.

Friday 9 October 2015

UK & Ireland - day 30 (2015-10-09) - Mucklin

This morning we went into Nenagh and visited a few stores, but no big purchases.  

Nora had arranged for us to meet a second cousin from my Mother's Father's family, so at 12:30 pm the 3 of us met Michael Sherlock outside a local cafe.  We had a good chat about the Sherlocks of yore, and Michael confirmed where the Sherlock house was in Curryquin.  Michael's brother in law, Donal, joined us a little later with some photographs, and so the chat continued.

There is a theory that everyone in the world is 6 or less steps apart (six steps of separation).  In New Zealand, being a small country, it is said that there is maybe only 4 steps of separation between everyone.  I think that in this part of Ireland there may be only 2 or 3 degrees of separation.  e.g. Michael Sherlock's brother in law, Donal, is a brother of Nora's neighbour, and he also went to school with Nora's husband, Liam.  A small world indeed,

In the afternoon, Nora, Marlene and myself walked back up to Sherlock Lane in search of the old family house.  Once we got beyond the gate at the bottom of the lane, it got very muddy, but we perserved, walked over the stream, and just beyond the stream on the right, we came across a stone wall and one remaining gate post.  This was an obvious entry point, so we climbed through the rudimentary fence that was keeping the animals out of the property and explored some more.  The land had been sold off some time ago for forestry use, so the area was covered with mature trees, but a series of stone walls remained, marking out the area around the house.  As Tom Hickey had told us, the house had been demolished to prevent squatters using it, and was just a pile of stones.  It was a beautiful location, with a large flat area around where the house had been.  One area was particularly wet, which Nora suggested was probably due to a spring, the water supply for the house.

                         Jim and Nora at the entrance to the Sherlock property

                              Marlene trying (unsuccessfully) to avoid the mud

In the evening, Nora, Brendan, Mags and their mother, Nellie, came over for a few hours, and we talked and looked at family photos.  We also took lots of photos, but they are trapped in Marlene's camera until we get home, so none to post.

Another great day, but our visit to Ireland is rapidly drawing to a close.  Tomorrow is our only full day, as we leave on Sunday morning.

UK & Ireland - day 29 (2015-10-08) - Mucklin

Today was a beautiful sunny day, so we planned to do a hike with Nora on The Burren in County Clare.  Nora's husband, Liam, decided to come with us, so the 4 of us set out to County Clare.

The Burren is a large limestone area, which is geologically somewhat unique, very barren, but home to some rare plants, so is a protected park.  The trails are well marked, and we chose the blue trail which took us up one face, over the highest point, then down the other side and back around to our starting point.  

                                                                The Burren

The walk was somewhat challenging, walking over a lot of rough rocks, with a few scrambles over larger pieces of rock.  Not a walk in the park but very enjoyable.  We started off with coats on, but the layers came off very quickly as we walked.  We only saw 1 person on the walk up, but met several more on the way back, including 2 men cutting back the hazel trees, which grow very prolifically here, and need to be controlled.

                                      Nora, Marlene and Liam taking a break

We had a short climb up a steep section right before the top, but we all emerged victorious.  The climb down the other side was a little more challenging as it was out of the sun, and the morning dew made the rocks a little slippery, so had to tread carefully.

                 Marlene - Queen of the hill

The walk back to the parking lot was relatively flat, past a small lake (pond?), and we all agreed that it was a great hike.

We stopped for lunch in a local pub, before setting off to Limerick to visit Nora's sister, Mary.  Armed with a cup of tea and a fruit scone, we had lots of lively conversation and laughter, and the hours slipped by unnoticed.  It was well dark by the time that Nora dropped us back at the lodge, and its total tranquility, and we were happy to just sit and enjoy the peacefulness.

Wednesday 7 October 2015

UK & Ireland - day 28 (2015-10-07) - Mucklin


It was very crisp this morning, but a brilliantly sunny day, which was great for a walk with Nora around the old village of Mucklin.  Historically, most of the houses were built on a lane that ran around the large green field in the photo below, with water being taken from the river which runs through the valley at the bottom of the field.

The lodge that we are staying in, is the only house to be built in Mucklin in the past 100 years, and there is very little left of most of the old village houses, but Nora has managed to record who lived where, with help from an 1850s map and by walking around the area with a long-time resident, Tom Hickey (more about Tom later in the blog).  Although he was not around in the 1850s, Tom had a wonderful memory of which families lived where, and stories associated with each family.  The lanes of the old village remain, and are used as farm tracks today.

                                              A sunny day in Mucklin
 
It was great to be able to see the layout of the village and hear about the various families, but most interesting was seeing our old Gleeson family home & its setting down by the river.  There is not much left of the old house these days, the roof is long gone (it was the first house in the village to have a slate roof), a lot of the walls have crumbled, trees have fallen over it, and the undergrowth has taken over.  

                            Jim in the window of the Gleeson home in Mucklin

It is unfortunate that after the current generation, the Gleeson land will probably leave family ownership, as only Patrick has children, two girls who are already married, and not farmers.  In another generation or two, the buildings will be gone, and memories of the village of Mucklin will only be what has been recorded for posterity....sad.

As we walked back to the lodge, we ran into Patrick who was doing some fencing, so we stopped for a chat and a photo in the lane. 

                                     Jim with cousins Patrick and Nora

After our walk we picked up Nora's mother, Nellie, visited the Grenanstown graveyard, where the more recently departed Gleesons are buried, then headed to Nora's house for a lovely dinner and long chat with Nellie, and later, Nora's husband, Liam.

As 6:30 pm approached we raced out of Nora's house, dropped Nellie at her home, and headed back up to Curryquin, where we had an appointment with Tom Hickey (referred to earlier re Mucklin), in hopes that he might remember something of my Sherlocks of Curryquin.  Tom is 91 years old, lives in Curryquin with his wife Tess, and although he is not the oldest resident of the townland, he has the most recollection of the people and places.  Each day Tom still goes walking the lanes of Curryquin and Mucklin, with just his walking stick, truly an amazing man.

Tom insisted on showing us where the Sherlocks lived, so we manoeuvred him into Nora's car and set off following Tom's directions.  We soon found "Sherlock Lane" as it is still called, a narrow track with a small stream running down it.  Tom indicated that the house was just a short way down the lane and we walked with me clearing debris from the path and Marlene and Nora supporting Tom.  It was slow going, and dusk was fast approaching, so Nora and I went ahead to see if we could see the house, while Marlene stayed with Tom, who continued to edge his way down the path.  By the time we returned, it was getting dark and I had to use the flashlight app in my phone to light our way back to the car.

                                  Nora guiding Tom Hickey into Sherlock Lane

Back at Tom's house, we sat down with Tom, Tess and their son, Willie, who indicated that we had not gone far enough down the lane to find the house, so we will have to try again on Friday (without Tom).  Tom remembered the Sherlock family, when they died, their musical and singing ability, etc., so it was great to hear about them from somebody who actually knew them.  

It was almost 9 pm when we left the Hickeys, the end of a very fruitful day.

Tuesday 6 October 2015

UK & Ireland - day 27 (2015-10-06) - Mucklin

Today was a quieter day, with me hoping to be rid of this pesky cold.

We drove into Nenagh, and visited the castle, of which only the 12th century keep is intact.  We climbed to the top of the keep and enjoyed the views over Nenagh and surrounding countryside.

                    The Keep of Nenagh Castle

                                               View from Nenagh Castle

After the castle, we walked across the street to visit my cousin, Nora, at work in the Genealogy Centre and Museum.  I was like a kid in a candy store!  The building was originally part of a prison, and later part of a convent, but now houses the North Tipperary Genealogy Centre and a small museum.

                  The Genealogical Centre

Nora pointed me to a few useful websites, provided some record information and a copy of an article that she had written about Mucklin.  So I went away happy, and Nora continued with her work.

In the afternoon we visited 3 local cemeteries (Dolla, Ballinaclough and Templederry), on the off chance of finding some snippet of family information, but also just to visit the areas that my family lived in, back in the mid-1800s.

Nora asked me a few days ago if I felt a connection to the land here, and I told her that I did not really, but that I did feel a connection with the people, as I see my family surnames everywhere - Ryan (commonest surname in Ireland), Gleeson, Slattery, etc. feature prominently on storefronts, vehicles and of course gravestones.  I definitely felt a stronger connection to my Cosgraves' land in Belfast, when we visited there several years ago....perhaps because it relates to my surname, and this area does not (being my mother's family).  Nevertheless I enjoy being here and seeing where my ancestors lived, laboured and expired.

We spent a relaxing evening in front of the fire, watched a little TV, and read, before hitting the hay.


Monday 5 October 2015

UK & Ireland - day 26 (2015-10-05) - Mucklin, Tipperary

Top o' the mornin' to ya!!

We had a very peaceful first night in Mucklin, hearing only the rain running out of the downspout into the drain, and we woke to a crisp foggy morning.

Nora arrived around 10 am we went for a 2 hour walk on the hills above the lodge.  We ran into Nora's brothers, Brendan and Patrick, early in the walk and stopped for a brief chat, but they were the only people that we saw.

As we walked, Nora pointed out where various related families had lived, and gave us a much better appreciation for Mucklin's geography versus the surrounding townlands, as some of my Mother's family lived in the neighbouring townland of Curryquin.

                              Curryquin from the lane separating it from Mucklin

Our walk was on country lanes and farm tracks, winding slowly up to the top of the ridge.  From the top we looked down on the lodge where we are staying (the white house in the centre of the photograph below) and Brendan's cow shed.

Mucklin and Curryquin are both on the hills, but are surrounded by a large flat area, with Nenagh, the local market town, about 8 Km away on the plain. In total we climbed about 850 feet on our walk.

                                   Silver Spruce Lodge from the top of the ridge

After a quick lunch we set off into Silvermines to visit the Kilmore cemetery, the final resting place of my  Mucklin Gleeson ancestors.  Brendan and Patrick have erected a new stone on the family plot, complete with a lot of family details.

                             Nora and Jim at the Gleeson plot in Kilmore graveyard

We stopped by to visit the only Sherlock still living in the area, but his neighbour told us that he is away until Friday, so we will try and catch up with him then.

Nora dropped us back at the lodge and Marlene & I headed into Nenagh to stock up on groceries for the week.

At 8 pm, Nora took us to the monthly meeting of the Silvermines Historical Society, primarily to listen to a talk about using DNA testing in family history.  The talk was very informative, and as an added bonus we got to meet an Egan third cousin.

All in all a busy first day in Mucklin, and by bedtime my voice was fading.  I will have to do less talking tomorrow.




Sunday 4 October 2015

UK & Ireland - day 25 (2015-10-04) - Bristol to Mucklin

If you search for Mucklin on Google Maps, you will find it in North Tipperary, Ireland, but the map shows nothing around the dot in the centre of the map, and the nearest sign of habitation is the village of Dolla.  There are no road signs pointing to Mucklin, and the road from Dolla quickly turns into a narrow lane lined with hedges and blackberry bushes, and makes several turns along the way....a trail of breadcrumbs might be useful.

Mucklin (Wet Land of the Pigs) is a townland of 487 acres, which in 1841 had a population of 170 people.  By 1911, around the time that my Mother's family left for New Zealand, the population was down to 47 people, and today nobody lives here.  So we have gone from the hustle and bustle of Bristol to the absolute silence of Mucklin....quite a contrast.  My cousin, Brendan Gleeson, still farms the land here, that his family has farmed since the late 1700s, where he rears organic sheep and cattle, but he lives down in the valley.

Our accommodation is a 4-star vacation home, Silver Spruce Lodge, built by my 2nd cousins in 2014, and is absolutely beautiful.  The house has 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a huge kitchen and comfy lounge, with central heating and 2 wood-burning stoves.  We have TV, internet, dishwasher, washer & dryer - everything but people.  

                                            Silver Spruce Lodge, Mucklin           

                                       Farmland view from Silver Spruce Lodge

                             Forest and Farmland view from Silver Spruce Lodge

Our travel from Bristol to Cork was uneventful and on time, and our rental car was waiting for us at Cork airport, for our 2 hour drive to Mucklin.  I had brought along my GPS, which was a huge help in finding our way.

My cousin Nora met us in Dolla and guided us to Mucklin, where Brendan was also waiting to greet us, with the wood-stove burning.  We discussed what we want to do during our week here, and then Nora and Brendan left us to our own devices.

After a light dinner, we turned in early, as I am trying to shake a cold that I picked up a few days ago, as I don't want to be sick for our stay here.

Saturday 3 October 2015

UK & Ireland - day 24 (2015-10-03) - Bristol

After 4 weeks in villages and small towns, it has been quite an adjustment getting used to the hustle & bustle, crowds, and especially the noise of this metropolitan area of over a million people.

We started the day by checking out exactly where we will catch the bus to the airport tomorrow morning.  Thankfully we catch the bus right over the road from the hotel, at the Temple Mead railway station, which is a lovely old building.

                                                  Temple Mead railway station

From there we walked a circular route which took in some of the sights and the shopping areas.  Bristol claims to be the UK's "Green Capital", and we saw some evidence of green-ness as we walked around town.  The first item was a solar-powered charging station for mobile phones, which seemed to only have 1 charging port working as the other connection points had all been stolen or vandalized.  The second was an urban garden offering free food, which seemed to be well patronized.

                                Solar charging station outside the 3D planetarium

                                                            Urban Garden

We then climbed to the top of Brandon Hill, to visit the Cabot Tower, which was built in 1897 to commemorate 400 years since John Cabot had sailed off to discover Canada.  The sign at the bottom of the hill indicated that the tower was 400 ft. tall, but it certainly did not look that tall, and we decided to climb the spiral staircase to the top. The morning was very foggy so the views were somewhat limited and the photos disappointing from the top.  After climbing the hill and the tower, my Fitbit told me that we had only climbed 310 ft. since leaving the hotel, so a quick Google search confirmed that the tower is only 104 ft. tall....I don't think that they could have built a 400 ft. tower in 1897!

                          Cabot Tower

Next was the Christmas Steps, built in 1669 to replace a mud track leading up the hill from the river.  The area is home to many old buildings, and is the arts quarter of the city.

                                                         Christmas Steps

Back down the steps, we headed through the Old City, checked out a big book / map store, and after a quick lunch we visited the shops along Park Street, followed by the Galleries and Cabot Circus shopping centres.

All shopped out, we headed back to the hotel via Temple Quay, to watch South Africa trounce Scotland in the Rugby World Cup.

In the evening we headed back to Harbourside, for a curry at a restaurant that we passed earlier in the day.  This part of town was packed with people and as we walked back to the hotel, we passed a constant stream of humanity, most of them clutching an alcoholic beverage, headed to Harbourside to add to the crowd.  The photograph below does not do it justice, but it was difficult to get over the pedestrian bridge and through the areas on either side of the river, due to the number of people.

                                         Pedestrian Bridge to Harbourside

We finished off the evening watching Australia defeat England in World Cup rugby.  There will be a lot of disappointed Englishmen tonight as England will not advance to the quarter finals.  

Friday 2 October 2015

UK & Ireland - day 23 (2015-10-02) - Lostwithiel to Bristol

Another travel day!

Our train journey from Lostwithiel to Bristol was uneventful and on time, getting us into Bristol at 2 pm. Our hotel is right across the street from the railway station so an easy walk, compared to some of our other accommodation locations.

We had to change hotel rooms as the bed in the first room was more like a hammock than a bed.  But they were very good about it and gave us drink coupons as compensation.....let's find some more problems.

This afternoon we went for a wander to get our bearings, and ended up down in the Harbourside area, which is being revitalized, and being Friday the bars and restaurants were packed with people enjoying an after work drink in the sun.

There were lots of interesting boats on the river, with the most interesting being the "S.S. Great Britain" and the "Matthew".  The S.S. Great Britain was designed by Isambard Brunel, completed in 1845 and was arguably the first cruise ship.  Brunel is perhaps better known for designing the Great Western Railway.  The Matthew is a replica of the ship sailed by John Cabot to discover Canada (from a European perspective) in 1497.

                                                          The River Avon

                                             Narrow boats on the River Avon

                                                        The Matthew (replica)

                                                         S.S. Great Britain

We ate dinner in a quiet corner of a busy pub (the Pitcher & Piano) on the river, and then headed back to the hotel to watch New Zealand play Georgia in the Rugby World Cup.

Thursday 1 October 2015

UK & Ireland - day 22 (2015-10-01) - Lostwithiel

Between 1770 and 1914, 4 generations of the Tremayne family managed their estate, Heligan, near Mevagissey, Cornwall.  But when most of their staff left to fight in WWI, the family moved to another family property and the gardens at Heligan were left to their own devices.  The gardens continued to become overgrown until 1990, when Tim Smit and John Nelson decided to try and restore the gardens, now known as the Lost Gardens of Heligan, to their former beauty.

Today, the Lost Gardens was our destination.  I had done my research on trains and buses, and we arrived in St. Austell as planned, where we waited for the #24 bus....the Heligan brochure identified that there is a bus stop at their main gate, and the Cornwall bus timetable showed the #24 bus from St. Austell to Mevagissey as the only likely bus that would go to Heligan.  So I was somewhat surprised when the bus driver told me that he did not go to Heligan, but that he could take us to Mevagissey, from where we would have a 45 minute uphill walk to Heligan.  What choice did we have?, so onto the bus we went.

It turned out well, as from Mevagissey we could follow an off-road pedestrian path all the way to Heligan - 2.4 Km and only a 30 minute walk (each way), through woodland.

The gardens themselves are 220 acres, but what the English call a garden is not what Canadians would call a garden....an English garden is all of the property around the house.  Most of the 220 acres at Heligan are woodland and pasture, with a much smaller area being gardens - places where you grow flowers and vegetables. 

We did the gardens justice, walking through most of the different sections, which included a Burmese rope bridge, a New Zealand section, and actual vegetable and flower gardens, plus areas for pigs, emus, ducks, geese, etc.  We both walked across the Burmese rope bridge, which wasn't at all scary, and I was able to name most of the trees in the New Zealand section, including my favourite - Rangiora (toilet paper tree).

                                                             Top Pond

                                                Jim in the New Zealand section

                                                       Fruit & Vegetable area

                                         Marlene on the Burmese rope bridge

Heligan is also home to two well-know living sculptures, the Giant's Head and the Mud Maid, which were created in 1998 by local artists Sue and Pete Hill.  They are both made from mud, with plants used to create features and contrast.

                                                         The Giant's Head

                                                             The Mud Maid

We got back to Lostwithiel at 5:30 pm and walked around town until the Globe Inn was serving food at 6:30 pm.  I love dogs as much as the next man, and I am okay with dogs on buses and trains, even dogs in pubs, but what we saw in the Globe tonight was beyond what I would consider reasonable....a dog sitting on the owner's lap at the bar, drinking out of her glass and eating treats off the bar.  

Tomorrow we pack up and move to Bristol, with no real plans in mind, as we simply need to get there to catch our flight to Ireland on Sunday.  So it will be interesting to see what we discover.