Tuesday 10 September 2019

Moelfre to Traeth Dulas (2019-09-10)

We had an enjoyable breakfast at our B&B in Moelfre, whilst chatting to a German couple who are also walking around Anglesey.  They are much younger than us and walking almost twice our distance each day.

But despite our leisurely breakfast we were still on the trail by 9:30 am.  Today’s walk was almost entirely off-road, with a few short stretches on quiet lanes, apart from a diversion that we took to see some ruins, but more on that later.  Our walk was to be only 9 km today, but we added a tidal estuary crossing at the end, which will be flooded tomorrow morning, and with the ruins diversion, the walk ended up being 14.5 km.  At least we know that tomorrow’s walk will be a little shorter than planned.

Farewell to Moelfre
The route made several ascents to cliffs or over headlands, but also had some beach level sections.

Us on the Cliff Tops
This section of coast has seen a lot of shipwrecks, with the most famous being the “Royal Charter” in October 1859, which ran aground only 30 yards from shore, with the loss of more than 400 lives.  On that night, more than 130 ships were wrecked around the coast of Britain, and led to the formation of Shipping Weather Forecasts and the Meteorological Office.

A unique weather vane / painting was erected on the cliffs to mark the 160th anniversary of the sinking of the Royal Charter.  The painting shows a clear sea scene on calm days (one side) and a stormy sea scene on stormy days (the other side), and it turns automatically.

Painting on Weather Vane - Calm Day
Soon after the weather vane we took a short diversion up a quiet but steep road to see the ruins of Din Lligwy, a 1st century village, and right next door, Capel Lligwy, the ruins of a 12th century chapel.

Capel Lligwy - 12th Century
From the ruins we headed back down to the coastal path and soon came to Traeth yr Ora, a beautiful little beach, accessible only by boat or from the coastal path, so no crowds of people.

Traeth yr Ora Beach
After the beach we headed inland on the south side of Traeth Dulas, a tidal estuary which extends some distance inland, and must be crossed.  But right before crossing the estuary, we came to the Pilot Boat pub, a welcome stop for lunch.  The German couple who we shared breakfast with, had a similar idea, and also lunched at the Pilot Boat.

The Pilot Boat
Our German friends still had 13 km to walk, but we only had to cross the estuary and walk up to a road, where Eurwyn picked us up and transported us to the Trecastell Hotel in Bull Bay, our home for the next two nights.

Bull Bay from the Trecastell Hotel
Our hotel is not in a village or town, so they have a somewhat captive audience for dinner.  But dinner was enjoyable, looking out across the bay, and who should we see again, but our German friends.  It is a small world!

No comments:

Post a Comment